Everything You Need to Know About Chicago Screws in Leathercraft
Everything You Need to Know About Chicago Screws in Leathercraft
Whether you're just starting out in leatherwork or you've been at the bench for years, there's one small piece of hardware that deserves a proper introduction: the Chicago screw. Unassuming in size but mighty in application, Chicago screws are one of the most versatile and satisfying fasteners you can add to your leathercraft toolkit. This guide covers everything — what they are, why they're worth using, how to use them, and which projects they suit best.
What Is a Chicago Screw?
A Chicago screw (also called a binding screw or sex bolt) is a two-piece metal fastener made up of a threaded barrel — the post — and a corresponding screw cap. The barrel passes through the material from one side, and the screw tightens in from the other, clamping the layers together firmly. No hammering, no crimping — just a clean, mechanical connection.
They're commonly available in solid brass or nickel-plated finishes, making them as aesthetically pleasing as they are practical. The result is a fastener that looks deliberate and refined, not merely functional.
Why Use Chicago Screws in Leatherwork?
Rivets are permanent. Stitching takes time. Adhesives are invisible. Chicago screws offer something the others don't: a secure join that can be undone and redone whenever you need.
Here's what makes them worth reaching for:
Durability. Made from solid brass or nickel plate, a well-made Chicago screw won't corrode, loosen, or let you down over years of regular use.
Reusability. Unlike a set rivet, a Chicago screw can be unscrewed and refastened. This is invaluable for fitting adjustments, repairs, or simply changing your mind about a design element.
Clean aesthetics. The domed cap of a Chicago screw sits flush against the leather and adds a professional, polished look to the finished piece. In many cases, it becomes a design feature in its own right.
Accessibility. You don't need specialist setting tools. A flathead screwdriver — or even a coin — is all it takes to assemble or disassemble them.
Layering capability. Chicago screws are ideal for joining multiple layers of leather, which makes them particularly useful for heavy-duty work like belts, bags, and saddlery.
Sizes and Finishes: Choosing the Right Screw
Choosing the right Chicago screw comes down to two things: the thickness of your leather stack and the look you're going for.
Post Length
The post (barrel) needs to be long enough to pass cleanly through all layers of leather without compressing them too tightly or leaving a gap. The range at British Leather Supplies covers four options to suit most situations:
- Small — 9mm head diameter, 5mm post. Good for single-layer or thin leather.
- Medium — 12mm head diameter, 5.5mm post. The everyday workhorse for double-layer projects like belt ends and strap joins.
- Long — 10mm head diameter, 10mm post. For thicker stacks or multiple layers.
- Extra Long — 10mm head diameter, 13mm post. For the chunkiest builds or when joining several components.
As a rule of thumb, measure your total leather thickness before ordering. You want a snug fit — enough post to engage the thread cleanly, without any play in the join.
Finish
The two most common finishes are solid brass and nickel plate. Solid brass develops a warm, living patina over time and pairs beautifully with natural vegetable-tanned leather. Nickel plate offers a cooler, more contemporary look with a bright chrome-like sheen. Match your screw finish to your other hardware — buckles, D-rings, and clasps — for a cohesive result.
What Can You Make With Chicago Screws?
The real strength of Chicago screws is how many different projects they suit. Here are some of the most common applications:
Belts. Chicago screws are a staple in belt-making. They attach the buckle keeper and the tip, and their removable nature means you can swap out hardware without remaking the whole belt.
Bags and totes. Use them to attach handles, fix D-rings, or join gusseted panels. They provide a strong mechanical bond that handles daily load-bearing stress with ease.
Notebooks and journals. Chicago screws are the classic binding method for handmade leather journals. They allow the spine to expand as you add pages — practical and elegant in equal measure.
Saddlery and tack. In equestrian leatherwork, Chicago screws have been used for decades to join saddle components and bridles. The strength and repairability they offer make them ideal for high-stress applications.
Holsters and sheaths. For knife sheaths or leather holsters, a tight Chicago screw join provides security and structure without the permanence of a rivet.
Decorative detailing. Sometimes the screw itself is the point. A row of brass Chicago screws along a strap or panel adds texture, rhythm, and a classic hardware aesthetic.
How to Use Chicago Screws: Step by Step
Getting a clean, professional result with Chicago screws is straightforward once you know the method.
What you'll need
- Your leather pieces
- Chicago screws in the correct size
- A hole punch (rotary punch or drive punch)
- A flathead screwdriver or coin
Step 1 — Mark your hole positions
Use a ruler and a silver pen or wing dividers to mark exactly where your holes will go. If you're joining two pieces of leather, mark them together — or use the first as a template for the second — to ensure perfect alignment.
Step 2 — Punch the holes
Select a punch size that matches the diameter of your screw barrel. You want a snug fit, not a sloppy one. Punch cleanly through all layers. A rotary punch on a solid surface gives the cleanest result.
Step 3 — Insert the barrel
From the underside (or back face) of the leather, push the barrel up through the punched hole so the flat base sits flush against the surface.
Step 4 — Thread the screw cap
From the top, place the screw cap into the barrel and turn it clockwise. Hand-tighten first, then use a screwdriver to snug it up firmly. Don't overtighten — you want the leather held securely without being crushed or distorted.
Step 5 — Check the finish
Run your finger across both the cap and the underside. Both should sit flat and flush. If the cap is proud of the surface, your post may be slightly too short. If the leather is puckering around the join, ease the screw back a quarter turn.
Tips for Getting the Best Results
Match your post length carefully. This is the most common source of frustration for newcomers. Too short and the cap won't engage properly; too long and there'll be play in the join. When in doubt, test on a scrap offcut first.
Use the same metal tone throughout your project. Mixing brass and nickel on a single piece rarely looks intentional. Pick one finish and stick with it across all your hardware.
Consider thread-locking for permanent applications. If you're making something like a holster that you don't want coming undone accidentally, a tiny drop of thread-locking compound on the barrel threads adds peace of mind without making it truly irreversible.
Sample before committing. If you're trying Chicago screws for the first time, pick up individual samples in different sizes before ordering a full set. It's the best way to work out which post length suits your usual leather thickness.
Where to Buy Quality Chicago Screws in the UK
For leatherworkers in the UK, British Leather Supplies stock Chicago Screws in solid brass and nickel plate across all four post lengths. You can order a single sample to test before committing to a full set of ten — a sensible way to make sure the size is right before you get stuck in.
Final Thoughts
Chicago screws are one of those hardware staples that, once you start using them, you'll find excuses to use everywhere. They're strong, they look great, and they give you the flexibility to refine and repair your work without starting from scratch. Whether you're building your first leather belt or adding a professional finish to a bespoke bag, getting comfortable with Chicago screws is well worth the small learning curve.
Pick up a few samples, punch some test holes in a scrap, and give them a try. Chances are they'll earn a permanent spot in your hardware drawer.
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Post authored by Becky Cocker, leather artisan and owner of British Leather Supplies. If you'd like to explore a curated selection of quality leather tools and sewing supplies, check out our collection at British Leather Supplies. We’re here to help you take your leatherworking skills to the next level.