Everything You Need to Know About Punches in Leathercraft
Everything You Need to Know About Punches in Leathercraft
Whether you're just starting out in leatherwork or you've been at the bench for years, punches are one of those tools you simply cannot do without. From creating clean stitch holes to fitting buckles and rivets, the right punch makes all the difference between a professional finish and a frustrating mess. In this guide, we'll walk you through the different types of leather punches, what they're used for, and how to choose the right one for your project.
What Is a Leather Punch?
A leather punch is a tool designed to cut a clean hole or series of holes through leather without tearing or distorting the fibres. Unlike drilling or cutting with a knife, a punch removes a precise circle (or shape) of material, leaving a neat, finished edge. This is essential for everything from belt holes to stitching lines, snap fastenings, and eyelet settings.
Types of Leather Punches
1. Single Hole Punch (Rotary or Drive)
The most familiar punch in any crafter's toolkit, the single hole punch comes in two main forms:
Rotary punch – Features a rotating wheel with multiple tip sizes, usually ranging from 1.5 mm to 4.5 mm. You squeeze the handles together to drive the tip through the leather. These are versatile, easy to use, and great for beginners.
Drive punch – A hollow steel tube with a sharpened cutting edge. You place it on the leather and strike it with a mallet. Drive punches tend to produce cleaner, crisper holes than rotary punches, particularly in thicker leathers.
Single hole punches are ideal for belt holes, buckle slots, snap fastenings, rivets, and eyelets.
2. Stitching Chisels and Pricking Irons
When it comes to hand stitching, pricking irons and stitching chisels are essential. They create evenly spaced holes along a stitch line, ensuring your thread passes through at consistent intervals for a neat, uniform finish.
Pricking irons create small, angled slots that give traditional leatherwork its distinctive diamond-shaped stitch pattern. They come in various spacing pitches — commonly 3 mm, 4 mm, or 5 mm — and are struck with a mallet.
Stitching chisels work similarly but tend to punch straight through the leather rather than at an angle. They're popular for a cleaner, more modern aesthetic.
Both tools typically come in single-prong (for corners and tight curves) and multi-prong versions (for long straight runs).
3. Oblong and Slot Punches
Also known as strap-end punches or belt slot punches, these tools cut an elongated rectangular hole — essential for fitting buckle tongues and adjustable straps. A clean slot punch produces a much neater result than trying to achieve the same shape with a knife.
They're available in a range of widths to suit different buckle sizes, and are well worth having in your toolkit if you make belts, watch straps, dog collars, or any strap-based item.
4. Oval and Decorative Punches
Beyond functional holes, punches are also used for decorative purposes. Oval punches are often used in lace cutting or for creating decorative perforations in bags and wallets. Decorative punches come in a wide variety of shapes — stars, flowers, diamonds, and more — and allow you to add intricate patterning to your leather goods without complex carving.
5. Hollow Punch Sets
A hollow punch set typically includes a range of round drive punches in graduated sizes, usually supplied together in a roll or case. These are workhorses in the workshop — used for everything from small rivet holes to larger fastener apertures. Investing in a quality set early on will save you no end of time and frustration.
Tips for Getting the Best Results
Always use a cutting mat or end-grain block. Striking a punch against a hard surface will blunt it rapidly. A self-healing cutting mat works for lighter work, but a solid end-grain wooden block — or a purpose-made leather punch pad — is best for drive punches and chisels.
Keep your punches sharp. A blunt punch drags and tears rather than cutting cleanly. Sharpen drive punches by running a fine dowel wrapped in fine-grit sandpaper inside the tube to hone the inner edge.
Mark your position first. Use a silver pen, wing divider, or stitching groover to mark your line before punching. Accurate placement makes for consistent, professional results.
Use the right size. It sounds obvious, but using a punch that's slightly too large or too small for a rivet or snap can mean loose fastenings or leather that splits under pressure. Always test on a scrap piece first.
What Mallet Should You Use With a Punch?
For drive punches and stitching chisels, you'll need a mallet rather than a metal hammer. A rawhide mallet or polyurethane (poly) mallet is ideal — they transfer enough force to drive the punch cleanly without damaging the tool's head. Wooden mallets work too, though they'll eventually show wear. Avoid steel hammers, which can mushroom the tops of your punches over time.
Choosing the Right Punch for Your Project
Not sure where to start? Here's a quick reference:
- Belts and straps – Single hole punch (round) + oblong/slot punch
- Hand stitching – Pricking irons or stitching chisels
- Rivets and snaps – Hollow punch set
- Eyelets and lace holes – Round drive punch
- Decorative work – Decorative shaped punches
Where to Buy Leather Punches in the UK
If you're looking to build out your punch collection, it's worth investing in quality tools that will last. Cheap punches blunt quickly and produce ragged holes — the opposite of what you want.
British Leather Supplies stocks a solid range of leather punches suited to both beginners and experienced leatherworkers, from single hole punches and hollow punch sets through to pricking irons and stitching chisels. Browse their full collection of leather punches to find the right tools for your next project.
Punches might not be the most glamorous tools in the workshop, but they're among the most important. A good set, properly maintained, will serve you for years and make every project that much more enjoyable to complete. Happy crafting!
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Post authored by Becky Cocker, leather artisan and owner of British Leather Supplies. If you'd like to explore a curated selection of quality leather tools and sewing supplies, check out our collection at British Leather Supplies. We’re here to help you take your leatherworking skills to the next level.