Everything You Need to Know About Rivets & Burrs in Leathercraft
Everything You Need to Know About Rivets & Burrs in Leathercraft
A complete guide to one of leathercraft's most enduring fastening techniques — from toolbox staples to decorative finishes.
Whether you're stitching your first belt or finishing a bespoke saddle bag, rivets and burrs are among the most satisfying fasteners you'll encounter in leathercraft. They're strong, visually pleasing, and — when set correctly — virtually permanent. Yet for many beginners, they remain a source of confusion: which rivet do I need? What's a burr, exactly? And how do I avoid that all-too-common frustration of a rivet that spins freely and refuses to set?
This guide covers everything you need to know: the different types available, when to use each, the tools required, and a step-by-step setting process that will have you punching and peening with confidence.
What are rivets and burrs?
In leathercraft, a rivet is a short metal pin used to permanently join two or more layers of leather together. The rivet is inserted through a pre-punched hole, and its protruding end is either capped (as with double-cap rivets) or mechanically deformed to hold the assembly in place (as with copper rivets and burrs).
A burr — sometimes called a washer — is a small, disc-shaped piece of metal with a hole in the centre. It is used in conjunction with a copper rivet: the rivet passes through the leather layers and through the burr, and the exposed end is then spread outwards with a hammer and punch, locking everything together. Together, the rivet and burr form one of the strongest mechanical fastenings available to a leatherworker.
"A well-set copper rivet and burr will outlast almost any other form of fastening — it's the same technology that held working harnesses together for centuries."
The different types of rivet
Not all rivets are created equal. Here's a breakdown of the most common types you'll encounter:
Copper rivets & burrs The traditional choice. Extremely strong, develops a beautiful patina over time. Used in saddlery, holsters, and heavy-duty work. Requires a rivet & burr setter tool and hammer.
Double-cap rivets Also called "rapid" or "tubular" rivets. Two-part press-fit fasteners with a decorative cap on each face. Quick to set, with no special tools required beyond a setter.
Single-cap rivets One decorative cap on one side, a flat back on the other. Common in garments and bags where one face is hidden inside a lining.
Solid brass rivets Dense and heavy-duty. Preferred where appearance and corrosion resistance matter, such as equestrian work or outdoor gear. Set in the same manner as copper.
Tubular rivets Hollow-shank rivets set with a flaring tool. Lighter than solid rivets and often used on straps where absolute strength isn't the primary concern.
Decorative rivets Dome-headed, pyramid, or studded rivets primarily used for aesthetic effect on belts, collars, and bags. Typically screw-back or press-fit.
Choosing the right size
Rivet sizing can be a stumbling block for newcomers. Copper rivets are measured by their diameter (commonly #8, #9, #10, #11, and #13 gauge) and their length. The length you need depends on the total thickness of the leather layers being joined.
As a rule of thumb, the shank of the rivet should protrude approximately 4–6 mm beyond the leather surface after passing through all layers. Too short, and you won't have enough material to spread over the burr. Too long, and the rivet will be floppy and difficult to set cleanly.
Pro tip: measure your stack Before selecting your rivet length, clamp your leather layers together as they would be in the finished piece and measure the total thickness with callipers. Add 5 mm for the peen allowance. This will give you the minimum shank length required.
For double-cap rivets, the sizing is generally described as short, medium, and long — and most manufacturers provide a guide indicating which total leather thickness each length suits. When in doubt, go medium.
Tools you'll need
Setting rivets well is largely a question of having the right tools and using them correctly. Here's what you'll need:
- Hole punch — a rotary punch or drive punch in the correct diameter for your rivet shank. The hole should be snug, not loose.
- Setting block or anvil — a solid, flat surface to work against. A leatherworker's steel bench block is ideal.
- Rivet setter — a domed or concave punch that fits over the cap of a double-cap rivet, or a flat-faced punch for peening copper rivets.
- Burr setter — a small tubular tool used to drive the burr down firmly against the leather before peening. Sometimes called a burr tool.
- Ball-peen hammer — for spreading the copper rivet end over the burr. A cobbler's hammer or riveting hammer works well.
- Nippers or flush cutters — to trim the excess shank of a copper rivet before spreading, if it protrudes too far.
Setting copper rivets and burrs: step by step
Step 1: punch the hole Place your leather on a cutting mat or hard surface and punch a clean hole through all layers simultaneously. The hole diameter should match the shank diameter of your rivet — a loose hole causes the rivet to rock and set poorly.
Step 2: insert the rivet Push the rivet through the hole from the face (decorative) side. The head of the rivet should sit flush against the leather. If the shank doesn't pass through easily, open the hole fractionally with your punch.
Step 3: seat the burr Slide the burr over the protruding shank on the back face of the leather. Use your burr setter placed over the shank and give it a firm tap with your hammer to drive the burr down snugly against the leather surface. The burr should be tight — not grinding into the surface, but with no appreciable gap.
Step 4: trim the shank if necessary If more than about 5–6 mm of shank protrudes beyond the burr, trim it carefully with nippers. Excess material makes for a messy, asymmetrical head. Aim to leave just enough to spread into a neat mushroom shape.
Step 5: peen the rivet Place the rivet head on your steel block (head-down). Using a ball-peen hammer, strike the end of the shank with light, rapid blows, working your way around the circumference to spread the metal evenly outwards. Avoid heavy single strikes — they tend to fold the material rather than spread it. The goal is a smooth, domed head that covers the burr cleanly.
A word on spinning rivets If your rivet spins when you try to peen it, the hole is too large or the burr hasn't been seated tightly enough. Prevent this by punching accurate holes and ensuring the burr is hammered firmly home before you start peening.
Setting double-cap rivets
Double-cap rivets are considerably more forgiving. Once the hole is punched and the rivet post inserted, simply place the cap over the post, position the setter over the cap, and strike firmly once or twice. The post flares inside the cap, locking the two halves together.
The most common mistake is striking too hard and distorting the cap. Let the setter do the work: a single firm strike is usually sufficient on medium-weight leather. On very thick or stiff leather, you may need two strikes — but check after the first before committing.
Finishes and materials
Rivets are available in a range of materials and finishes to suit different aesthetics and working environments:
- Copper — the traditional craftsman's choice. Ages beautifully and is highly resistant to corrosion.
- Solid brass — warm tone, excellent durability, popular in equestrian and heritage-style work.
- Nickel — bright, silver-toned finish. Common in garments and fashion accessories.
- Antique brass — a darker, aged tone that suits rustic and vintage-inspired designs.
- Gunmetal / black — a dark finish that works well with dark or black leathers and contemporary designs.
- Rose gold — popular in fashion and jewellery-adjacent leatherwork.
Bear in mind that the finish on double-cap rivets is applied to the cap, while the post is generally plain metal. On heavier projects, exposed posts are typically hidden inside linings or on back faces where appearance is less important.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Holes that are too large. Always test your punch size on a scrap piece before committing to your project leather. The shank should pass through with only light finger pressure — not loosely.
Setting rivets on a soft surface. Foam, rubber, or a leather cutting mat will absorb the energy of your hammer blows and result in a poorly set rivet. Always use a hard steel block.
Peening too hard or too fast. Light, controlled blows produce a neater head than heavy strikes. Take your time.
Using the wrong length. A shank that's too short will tear through the burr under load. One that's too long will produce an untidy, bulky head. Measure first.
In summary
Rivets and burrs are among leathercraft's most reliable and historically proven fasteners. Whether you're reaching for the traditional strength of a copper rivet set with a ball-peen hammer, or the convenience of a double-cap rivet pressed in seconds, understanding the differences in type, size, and setting technique will help you choose correctly and achieve clean, professional results every time.
With a little practice and the right tools, setting a rivet becomes one of those satisfying, almost meditative tasks that remind you why hand leatherwork endures.
Ready to stock up? Browse the full range of leather rivets — copper, brass, double-cap, and more — at British Leather Supplies.
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Post authored by Becky Cocker, leather artisan and owner of British Leather Supplies. If you'd like to explore a curated selection of quality leather tools and sewing supplies, check out our collection at British Leather Supplies. We’re here to help you take your leatherworking skills to the next level.