Everything You Need to Start Out in Leathercraft
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Everything You Need to Start Out in Leathercraft
From your very first swivel knife to your first finished wallet — a complete guide to setting yourself up for success in the craft.
Leathercraft is one of those crafts that rewards patience, precision, and — above all — a decent set of tools. Pick up something cheap and poorly made and you'll spend more time wrestling with your equipment than actually learning the craft. Start with the right kit, however, and every cut, stitch, and finish will feel satisfying from the very beginning.
Whether you fancy making belts, wallets, bags, or hand-stitched journal covers, the fundamentals are the same. Here's everything you need to know about getting started.
Why tools matter more than talent at the start
It might sound counterintuitive, but when you're a beginner, good tools actually matter more than they do for an experienced leatherworker. A seasoned craftsperson can compensate for a blunt awl or a flimsy edge beveller; a newcomer simply can't. Poor tools produce poor results, and poor results kill enthusiasm.
"The craft teaches you; the tools enable you. Give yourself the best chance from day one."
The good news is that you don't need dozens of specialist items to begin. A focused starter kit covers everything you'll use in the first months of learning.
The essential tools for a beginner
Cutting and measuring
Cutting mat A self-healing cutting mat is non-negotiable. It protects your work surface, prolongs the life of your blades, and gives you a stable, consistent base to cut against. Look for at least an A3 size — you'll be surprised how quickly a smaller mat becomes restrictive. Most mats have a printed grid, which is genuinely useful for checking that your cuts are square.
Metal ruler Always metal, never plastic or wood. When you're running a knife along a ruler, any slip will carve straight into a softer edge. A heavy steel rule with a cork backing is ideal — the cork lifts it slightly off the leather surface, preventing it from sliding mid-cut.
Leather knife The workhorse of the toolkit. A good leather knife should feel balanced in the hand and hold a sharp edge well. Round-point knives are the most versatile for beginners; they're used for cutting panels, strips, and curves. Keep a strop and honing compound nearby — a sharp knife is a safe knife, and in leatherwork, bluntness causes as many mistakes as it prevents.
Swivel knife Once you move into decorative work or carving, a swivel knife becomes essential. It rotates freely in your fingers as you draw it through dampened leather, allowing fluid, curved cuts for floral patterns, lettering, and geometric designs. Not strictly necessary on day one, but worth knowing about early.
Stitching tools
Pricking irons These are the tools that give hand-stitched leather its characteristic look. Pricking irons have multiple tines spaced at regular intervals — typically 3mm, 4mm, or 5mm apart — and are driven into the leather with a mallet to create evenly spaced holes. A set usually includes a multi-tine iron for long runs and a two-tine iron for corners. The spacing you choose affects the overall aesthetic: tighter spacing looks refined and European; wider spacing has a more rustic, traditional feel.
Stitching chisels Similar to pricking irons but punch all the way through the leather cleanly, rather than just marking the surface. Useful when you're working with thicker pieces or need a very clean hole. Some leatherworkers use pricking irons to mark and then an awl to open the hole fully; others use chisels exclusively. Try both and see what suits your style.
Stitching awl A pointed, handled tool for opening stitching holes individually — particularly useful in tight corners, curved sections, or when repairing existing stitching. A diamond-shaped (or lozenge) awl tip produces a cleaner, more compact hole than a round one and is generally preferred for fine work.
Harness needles Leatherworking needles are blunt-tipped, which might seem odd, but it's intentional — you're passing them through pre-punched holes, not piercing the leather directly. Harness needles are sturdy, come in various sizes, and are designed for the saddle-stitch technique. Buy a small pack; they do bend and occasionally break.
Waxed thread Traditionally, saddle-stitching uses waxed linen thread, which is strong, doesn't rot, and lies flat in the groove. It comes in a range of weights (thicknesses) and colours. For most beginners' projects, a 0.8mm or 1mm thread works well. Polyester thread is a more modern alternative — it's stronger and more resistant to UV and moisture, making it a good choice for items that will see heavy outdoor use.
Edge finishing tools
Edge beveller After cutting leather, the raw edge has a sharp 90-degree corner. An edge beveller — a small handheld tool with a V-shaped blade — removes this corner, leaving a softly chamfered edge that's far more comfortable to handle and looks considerably more professional. They come in numbered sizes; a No. 1 or No. 2 suits most beginner leatherweights.
Wing divider A compass-like tool with two metal points, used to scribe a consistent line parallel to the leather's edge. This marks where your stitches will go and ensures they're perfectly even all the way round. Some leatherworkers prefer a stitching groover, which cuts a shallow channel rather than just marking — this recesses the thread slightly, protecting it from abrasion.
Edge slicker or bone folder Once the edge is bevelled, it needs to be burnished to a smooth, rounded finish. An edge slicker — typically a piece of wood with curved grooves of different diameters — is rubbed back and forth along the edge, often with a little water or beeswax, to compress and smooth the leather fibres. A bone folder does a similar job and is also used to crease folds neatly. Some leatherworkers use a Dremel or drill attachment for burnishing on longer runs, but hand tools are perfectly adequate to start.
Edge paint or edge coat For a very clean, finished look — particularly on veg-tan or chrome-tan leathers — a liquid edge paint can be applied with a small applicator or toothpick after burnishing. It seals the edge completely and gives a slightly glossy, uniform finish. It's an optional extra for beginners but worth experimenting with once you're comfortable with the basics.
Striking and holding tools
Mallet or maul Used to drive pricking irons, stamps, and punches into leather. A wooden or nylon mallet is recommended for home use — they're considerably quieter than metal hammers and produce a more controlled strike. A round-head maul is the traditional choice; it allows you to strike from any angle without adjusting your grip. Weight matters: something in the 300–450g range is comfortable for most people.
Hole punches Rotary punches (the multi-headed plier-style tool) are the most accessible option for beginners. They punch clean, round holes for belt buckle prongs, poppers, rivets, and similar hardware. A set of individual drive punches in various diameters is more precise and longer-lasting, but either will serve you well early on.
Stitching clam or pony A stitching clam (or stitching pony) is a wooden vice that holds your work between two jaws while you stitch, freeing up both hands to work the needles. It's not strictly essential — you can clamp work between your knees or use binder clips — but once you've used one, it's very hard to go back. Floor-standing ponies are more stable; desktop clams are more portable.
Spring clips and bulldog clips For gluing and holding pieces together while adhesive sets, a handful of strong clips is essential. They're cheap, versatile, and you'll use them constantly.
Adhesives and finishing
Leather cement or contact adhesive Before stitching, most leatherworkers glue their pieces together temporarily to hold everything in position. Leather cement (also sold as contact cement or Barge cement) is applied to both surfaces, allowed to become tacky, and then pressed together. It holds firmly enough to stitch without the pieces shifting, but the stitching itself provides the real structural strength.
Leather conditioner and finish After a project is complete, a good conditioner — neatsfoot oil, leather balm, or a dedicated conditioner — nourishes the leather and helps develop its patina over time. For veg-tan, a light application of conditioner is usually all that's needed. A spray or wipe-on finish can also add a layer of protection against water and staining.
Choosing your leather
Vegetable-tanned leather is the standard recommendation for beginners, and for good reason. It's firm enough to hold its shape while you work, takes tooling and carving well, and develops a beautiful patina over time. Chrome-tanned leather is softer and more flexible — better suited to garments — but less forgiving when you're just finding your feet.
For your first project, a 2–3mm vegetable-tanned hide (or a pre-cut panel) is ideal. Sides and double shoulders are economical if you plan to make several items; otherwise, a small off-cut or panel is plenty for a wallet or card holder.
Your first project
A bifold wallet is the classic first project for good reason: it's small, uses minimal leather, and requires you to practise cutting straight lines, punching consistent holes, and saddle-stitching — the three most important foundational skills. A simple card holder is even more approachable if you'd like to start with something even smaller.
Once you've made one wallet, you'll be surprised how quickly the next one comes together. The muscle memory for consistent stitching builds rapidly, and you'll find yourself reaching for more ambitious projects before long.
Where to get your kit
British Leather Supplies is one of the most well-regarded stockists in the UK for both tools and leather. Rather than hunting down individual items and hoping they're compatible in quality, they offer curated kits designed specifically for beginners — which takes the guesswork out of starting out.
Starter Kit A hand-picked selection of essential tools to get you stitching and cutting straight away. Perfect if you want to dip your toes in without overcommitting. Browse starter kits at British Leather Supplies →
Complete Leatherwork Toolkit (Basic) A more comprehensive kit covering everything you'll need to tackle a wider range of beginner and intermediate projects — without buying tools piecemeal over time. View the complete toolkit at British Leather Supplies →
A note on getting better
Leathercraft is a craft in the truest sense: progress comes through repetition, not theory. Watch your cuts. Notice where your stitches drift. Pay attention to your edge finishing. Every small thing you correct compounds over time into work you'll be genuinely proud of.
The community around leathercraft — online forums, YouTube channels, and local guilds — is also unusually generous with knowledge. Don't be afraid to ask questions or share your early work. Everyone started with a wonky first wallet.
Happy crafting.
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Post authored by Becky Cocker, leather artisan and owner of British Leather Supplies. If you'd like to explore a curated selection of quality leather tools and sewing supplies, check out our collection at British Leather Supplies. We’re here to help you take your leatherworking skills to the next level.