How to Use Diamond Stitching Punches in Leatherwork
How to Use Diamond Stitching Punches in Leatherwork
Whether you're crafting your first leather wallet or working on an intricate belt, the quality of your stitching can make or break the finished piece. Diamond stitching punches are one of the most essential tools in any leatherworker's kit, producing clean, angled holes that create that distinctive, professional saddle-stitch finish. In this guide, we'll walk you through everything you need to know to use them effectively.
What Are Diamond Stitching Punches?
Diamond stitching punches — sometimes called pricking irons or stitching chisels — feature tines with a diamond-shaped cross-section. Unlike round punches, the angled profile of each tine creates a slanted hole in the leather that guides your needle at a consistent angle. The result is the classic, elegant diagonal stitch pattern seen on high-quality leather goods.
They come in a range of tine spacings (commonly referred to as "pitch"), measured in millimetres or stitches per inch. A 3–4mm pitch works beautifully on finer leathers and small accessories, whilst a 5–6mm pitch suits heavier projects such as belts, bags, and holsters.
You can explore a full range of diamond stitching punches for your projects at British Leather Supplies.
What You'll Need
Before you begin, gather the following:
- Diamond stitching punches (single-tine and multi-tine)
- A wooden or rawhide mallet (never a metal hammer)
- A stitching groover or wing dividers
- A cutting mat or stitching pony
- A piece of veg-tan or other firm leather
- Waxed linen or polyester thread
- Two blunt-tipped harness needles
Step 1: Mark Your Stitch Line
Start by marking a consistent stitch line along the edge of your leather. Use a stitching groover set to your desired distance from the edge — typically 3–5mm — and run it along the grain side of the leather. This creates a shallow channel that both guides your punches and recesses the thread, protecting it from wear.
If you'd prefer not to groove the leather, wing dividers work equally well for simply scribing a line.
Step 2: Select the Right Punch
For straight runs of stitching, use a multi-tine punch (four- or six-prong versions are popular choices). For tight corners and curves, switch to a two-prong or single-tine punch to maintain accuracy without tearing the leather.
Consistency is key: always use punches of the same pitch throughout a single project, otherwise your stitch spacing will be uneven.
Step 3: Punch the Holes
Place your leather on a firm, protective surface — a thick rubber mat or a piece of end-grain wood is ideal. Position your punch along the scribed line, keeping the tines perpendicular to the leather surface, and strike firmly with your mallet.
To space subsequent holes evenly, place the last tine of the punch into the final hole of the previous set before striking. This ensures perfectly consistent spacing along the entire stitch line.
Tips for clean holes:
- Work on a hard, stable surface to get crisp, well-defined holes.
- Apply firm, decisive strikes rather than tentative taps — hesitant strikes can drag the tines and distort the holes.
- For thick leather (3mm+), punch through from the grain side, then flip and finish from the flesh side if needed.
Step 4: Saddle Stitching
Thread your two needles — one on each end of a length of waxed thread — and begin stitching using the saddle-stitch method:
- Pass the first needle through the initial hole from front to back.
- Pull the thread through until equal lengths remain on each side.
- Pass the second needle through the same hole from back to front, crossing over the first thread.
- Pull both threads taut and repeat along the stitch line.
The crossed thread within each hole is what gives saddle stitching its characteristic strength and appearance. Unlike machine stitching, if one stitch breaks, the rest remain intact.
Step 5: Finishing the Stitching
To finish, backstitch through the last two or three holes, then trim the thread close to the leather surface. Carefully melt the ends with a lighter or thread burner (for synthetic threads), or simply apply a small amount of beeswax and press flat. Burnish the stitching groove gently with a bone folder or wooden slicker to settle the thread neatly into the channel.
Care and Maintenance of Your Punches
Diamond stitching punches are precision tools and deserve proper care. After use, wipe the tines clean with a dry cloth. If they begin to feel dull, a few passes on a fine leather strop loaded with honing compound will restore the edge. Store them upright or wrapped to prevent the tines from contacting other metal tools.
Avoid using your punches on heavily oiled leather or chrome-tan if possible — these materials can be tougher on the edges and may require more frequent sharpening.
Choosing the Right Punches for Your Projects
| Pitch | Best For |
|---|---|
| 2–3mm | Fine leather goods, card holders, watch straps |
| 3–4mm | Wallets, small bags, journal covers |
| 5–6mm | Belts, satchels, holsters, heavier bags |
If you're just starting out, a set that includes both a four-prong and a single-tine punch in a 4mm pitch gives you the versatility to handle most beginner and intermediate projects with ease.
Ready to Get Started?
Having the right tools makes an enormous difference in the quality and enjoyment of leatherwork. Browse the full selection of diamond stitching punches and other leatherworking essentials at British Leather Supplies — a great source for quality tools whether you're a hobbyist or a seasoned craftsperson.
Happy stitching!
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Post authored by Becky Cocker, leather artisan and owner of British Leather Supplies. If you'd like to explore a curated selection of quality leather tools and sewing supplies, check out our collection at British Leather Supplies. We’re here to help you take your leatherworking skills to the next level.