What Thickness of Leather to Use for Wallet Making
What Thickness of Leather to Use for Wallet Making
Whether you're a seasoned leatherworker or just starting out, one of the most common questions when making a wallet is: what thickness of leather should I use? Get it wrong, and your wallet will either be too stiff and bulky, or too flimsy to hold its shape. Get it right, and you'll end up with a beautiful, functional piece that lasts for years.
This guide breaks down everything you need to know about leather thickness for wallet making, so you can choose the right hide for every part of your project.
Understanding Leather Thickness
Leather thickness is measured in millimetres (mm) or, in some older traditions, in ounces (oz) — where one ounce equates to approximately 0.4 mm. In the UK, millimetres are the most commonly used measurement, and most good suppliers will list their leather by thickness in mm.
The Different Parts of a Wallet
A wallet is not a single piece of leather — it's a construction of several components, each with different structural requirements:
- Outer shell – the exterior faces of the wallet
- Card slots – the pockets that hold your cards
- Cash divider – a flat panel separating notes
- Lining – an interior layer for structure or aesthetics
Each of these components benefits from a different thickness of leather.
Recommended Leather Thicknesses
Outer Shell: 0.8 mm – 1.2 mm
The outer shell needs to be substantial enough to hold its shape and withstand daily wear, but not so thick that the finished wallet becomes a brick in your pocket. A thickness of 0.8 mm to 1.2 mm strikes the right balance — firm enough to be durable, slim enough to fold neatly.
For a bifold wallet, stay towards the lower end of this range (0.8 mm – 1.0 mm) to keep the overall profile slim once all the layers are assembled.
Card Slots: 0.6 mm – 0.8 mm
Card slots need to flex slightly to accommodate cards sliding in and out, so a lighter leather works best here. 0.6 mm to 0.8 mm gives you enough strength to prevent tearing whilst keeping the slot pliable.
If your card slot leather is too thick, the finished wallet will be uncomfortably bulky — a common mistake for beginners.
Cash Divider: 0.5 mm – 0.8 mm
A note divider sits in the centre of the wallet and doesn't take much structural stress, so you can go relatively thin here. 0.5 mm to 0.8 mm is ideal. This keeps the centre of the wallet slim whilst still giving you a clean, defined panel.
Lining: 0.4 mm – 0.6 mm
If you're adding an interior lining — perhaps in a contrasting colour or a softer leather — keep it light. 0.4 mm to 0.6 mm is plenty. Heavier linings add unnecessary bulk without any functional benefit.
A Quick Reference Guide
| Component | Recommended Thickness |
|---|---|
| Outer shell | 0.8 mm – 1.2 mm |
| Card slots | 0.6 mm – 0.8 mm |
| Cash divider | 0.5 mm – 0.8 mm |
| Lining | 0.4 mm – 0.6 mm |
Think About the Total Thickness
When designing your wallet, it's worth adding up the total thickness of all the layers at the thickest point. A well-made bifold wallet should ideally be no more than 6–8 mm thick when empty. If your layered components are already pushing past this before you've added any cards, you'll want to reconsider your leather choices.
A useful rule of thumb: skive (thin) your leather edges wherever two or more pieces overlap. This dramatically reduces bulk at the seams and gives your wallet a much more professional finish.
Which Type of Leather Works Best?
Thickness is just one part of the equation — the type and temper of the leather matters enormously too.
- Vegetable-tanned leather is firm and develops a beautiful patina over time. It's excellent for outer shells but can be stiff for card slots unless you choose a softer temper.
- Chrome-tanned leather is softer and more supple straight away, making it ideal for linings and card slots.
- Nappa or pull-up leathers are popular choices for wallets due to their smooth surface and pleasant hand feel.
Where to Source Your Leather
For UK leatherworkers, sourcing quality leather at the right thickness is crucial. British Leather Supplies is an excellent resource, offering a wide range of hides in various thicknesses and tempers suitable for wallet making. Buying from a reputable UK supplier means you can be confident in the quality and provenance of your leather, and many suppliers will cut to order so you only pay for what you need.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right leather thickness for your wallet is one of those details that separates a good wallet from a great one. Keep your outer shell firm, your card slots supple, and your linings light — and always think about how all your layers will work together once assembled.
Happy crafting!
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Post authored by Becky Cocker, leather artisan and owner of British Leather Supplies. If you'd like to explore a curated selection of quality leather tools and sewing supplies, check out our collection at British Leather Supplies. We’re here to help you take your leatherworking skills to the next level.