
What Are Chicago Screws and How to Use Them in Leather Crafting?
What Are Chicago Screws and How to Use Them in Leather Crafting?
If you’re passionate about leather crafting, you already know how crucial it is to find fasteners that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Enter the Chicago screw—an underrated yet indispensable tool in the leatherworking world. Whether you’re creating handcrafted belts, wallets, or straps, Chicago screws help you secure leather pieces with precision and style. But what exactly are they, and how can they enhance your leather projects?
This guide is here to walk you through everything you need to know about Chicago screws, from their basic structure and advantages to practical applications in leather crafting.

What Are Chicago Screws?
Chicago screws, also known as barrel nuts, are two-part fasteners commonly used in leatherworking, bookbinding, and other crafts. They consist of a barrel (a cylindrical post with a flat head) and a screw that secures it in place. When the two components are combined, the result is a strong and durable fastening mechanism.
The design of Chicago screws ensures that they lie flush against your material, giving projects a clean, polished look. Available in various sizes, finishes, and materials (like brass, stainless steel, and aluminium), they can suit projects of all types and styles.
Why Are They Called Chicago Screws?
The name originates from their invention in Chicago during the late 19th century. Originally designed for industries like textiles and leather, their simple yet effective design has stood the test of time.
Benefits of Using Chicago Screws in Leather Crafting
1. Strong and Durable
Chicago screws provide a secure hold, even when used with thick materials like leather. Unlike stitching or rivets, they don't loosen over time if properly tightened.
2. Reusable
One of the key advantages of Chicago screws is their reusability. If you need to disassemble or modify your project later on—for instance, replacing worn parts or making size adjustments—you can easily unscrew them without causing damage.
3. Aesthetic Appeal
With sleek, decorative heads available in a variety of finishes, Chicago screws add a professional and polished appearance to leather items. Choose from nickel-plated, antique brass, or matte black designs to match your vision.
4. Easy to Use
Even if you’re new to leather crafting, learning how to use Chicago screws is straightforward. Unlike traditional rivets or stitching, which require specialised tools, Chicago screws typically need just a punch, a screwdriver, and a steady hand.
5. Cost-Effective
Given their versatility and durability, Chicago screws are an affordable choice for a wide range of projects. Their reusability ensures you get even more value for your investment.
How to Use Chicago Screws in Leather Projects
Step 1:** Gather Your Tools**
Before you begin, make sure you have the following:
- Chicago screws (ensure they’re the right size for your leather thickness)
- A hole punch or leather awl
- Screwdriver (either flathead or Phillips, depending on your screws)
- Mallet (optional, for thicker leather)
Step 2:** Prepare the Leather**
Decide where the screws will go on your leather piece. Mark these points using chalk or a leather pen. Use a hole punch or awl to create clean holes. Ensure the diameter of the hole matches the shaft of the screw’s barrel for a snug fit.
Pro Tip: Test your punch size on a scrap piece of leather first to avoid mistakes on your final project.
Step 3:** Insert the Barrel**
Slip the barrel section of the screw through the hole in your leather. If you’re joining multiple layers, ensure they’re aligned correctly before inserting the barrel.
Step 4:** Attach the Screw**
From the opposite side, line up the screw with the barrel and twist it into place by hand. Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw fully. Be careful not to overtighten, as this could damage the leather or strip the threading.
Step 5:** Secure and Check**
Once tightened, check that the screw is flush with the leather's surface. If needed, use a mallet to gently flatten the leather around the screw for a cleaner finish.
Step 6:** Test the Fastening**
Before you move on, give your piece a slight tug to ensure the screws are firmly in place. If everything feels secure, you’re good to go!
Inspiring Leather Projects That Use Chicago Screws
1. Belts and Straps
Chicago screws are the ideal fastener for belts, camera straps, or bag handles. By allowing precise adjustments, they’re perfect for creating items where fit and length are crucial.
2. Wallets and Clutches
Replace traditional stitching with Chicago screws to make sleek, minimalist wallets and clutches. Their metal finishes add a modern touch.
3. Knife Sheaths and Tool Holders
For outdoor enthusiasts, secure your tools with Chicago screws. Their strength ensures your leather-crafted sheaths are as durable as they are stylish.
4. Custom Dog Collars
Add a touch of luxury to pet accessories by combining Chicago screws with engraved nameplates or decorative embellishments.
5. Journals and Portfolios
Use Chicago screws to bind leather covers for handmade journals or portfolios. They make it easy to replace or add pages as needed.
Tips for Selecting the Right Chicago Screws
- Match the Size
Ensure the shaft length of the barrel corresponds to the thickness of your leather layers. Too short, and the screw won’t hold; too long, and it may feel loose.
- Consider the Metal
Choose a metal that complements your leather. Brass pairs beautifully with rustic brown leather, while stainless steel offers modern versatility.
- Check for Extra Features
Some Chicago screws come with locking mechanisms or decorative heads—consider these for added functionality or flair.
Caring for Your Chicago Screws
To prolong the life of your Chicago screws, follow these care tips:
- Check Periodically
Over time, screws may loosen slightly, especially in items with frequent use, like belts or bags. Check and tighten them periodically.
- Avoid Rust
Choose rust-resistant materials like stainless steel or brass, especially for outdoor items.
- Wipe Clean
Use a soft cloth to remove dirt or tarnish. Avoid harsh chemicals that could discolour the metal.
Level-Up Your Leather Crafting Today
Adding Chicago screws to your toolkit can elevate your leatherworking projects, offering the perfect fusion of practicality and style. Whether you’re crafting a sturdy belt, an elegant clutch, or a personalised journal, these fasteners will save you time while giving your designs a professional edge.
Want to learn more leatherworking techniques or find high-quality Chicago screws? Subscribe to our newsletter or explore our range of crafting tools at British Leather Supplies.